Postcards from Williams and The Grand Canyon - “Riding the Rails to the Rim”
In 1903, President Teddy Roosevelt addressed a crowd at The Grand Canyon. When speaking of this natural wonder, he said- “Man cannot improve on it; not a bit. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it. What you can do is keep it for your children and your children’s children and for all who come after you, as one of the great sights which every American, if he can travel at all, should see.” More than a century later, hundreds of millions have heeded those words, and the Canyon is an essential detour for travelers who find themselves motoring along Route 66. But Route 66 is as much about the journey as it is any destination. And that journey is what we’ll focus on in this episode, as we invite you to join us and some other sojourners as we ride The Grand Canyon Railway from the town of Williams, Arizona to the edge of the South Rim.
TRANSCRIPT
(As this transcript was obtained via a computerized service, please forgive any typos, spelling and grammatical errors)
Evan Stern: (00:00)
In 1903, President Teddy Roosevelt addressed a crowd at the Grand Canyon. When speaking of this natural wonder, he said, "Man cannot improve on it, not a bit. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it. What you can do is keep it for your children and your children's children, and for all who come after you as one of the great sites, which every American, if he can travel at all should see." More than a century later, hundreds of millions have heeded those words. And the Canyon is an essential detour for travelers like me who find themselves motoring along Route 66. But Route 66 is as much about the journey as it is any destination. And that journey is what we'll focus on today as I invite you to join me and a few other sojourners as we ride the tracks of the Grand Canyon Railway from the town of Williams, Arizona to the edge of the South Rim. I'm Evan Stern, and this is Vanishing Postcards.
Outlaw: (02:08)
We ain't got no money and, and we're hungry. I got news for you. We're getting on that train this afternoon. We're gonna go ahead and rob every single person on it. I'll tell you something else,
Evan Stern: (02:18)
It's little after 8:00 AM and I and a few hundred others have gathered outside the depot in Williams, Arizona. We're here to board the train, but the outlaws of the Cataract Creek Gang are busy getting into a squabble over breakfast. Tempers flare, pistols are drawn, but despite the bravado, they are no match for Marshall Shiloh. And within 10 minutes all are tasting dust. But this duel won't be making the pages of this town's Independent as this throwback to the days of Bonanza and Maverick happens most every morning around here. And while the Western genre has been reinvented many times over, this kitschy technicolor vision is an identity Williams has come to unapologetically embrace.
Andrew Humble: (03:05)
Um, it's definitely where, um, Fonz from the Happy Days meets cowboys. That is Williams, Arizona in a nutshell.
Sam Langner: (03:13)
The West for, all it is still has there, there is some charm that that is very present, uh, present. Uh, there are a number of towns that have an ambience that that is that of the fifties. Williams, Arizona, um, again, is a Route 66 town. And so the, it's, it's a location where there are mom and pop diners, um, and cars, vintage car shows, and all kinds of events that, uh, that, that, that feel, that, that feel very nostalgic.
Evan Stern: (03:43)
That's Sam Langner. A young and enthusiastic fellow Texan, he found himself itching for an adventure after completing his studies in industrial design and took what was supposed to be a seasonal job working at the South Rim's Maswick Lodge. He quickly advanced and a few years later is still living in and loving Arizona, where he manages community relations for the Grand Canyon Railway, which despite its long history, seems as popular as ever.
Sam Langner: (04:09)
The history of Grand Canyon Railway spans back to the late 1800s, so well, well over a century, uh, plus of this history. The original reason why anyone was out in that area, as is most of the cases with the Wild West was, uh, mining. And so near the South Rim, uh, there was copper ore that was being mined in the region. And, and, uh, they had to have a rail line to bring the copper ore to, and from that location. Williams just happened to be the kind of the way point, uh, of civilization that ended up getting developed. And so in the early 1900s in, uh, uh, 1901 and and thereafter, Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway in association with the Fred Harvey Company, uh, developed, uh, the, the Fray Marcus Hotel, which was one of the Harvey houses. What they realized was, although, you know, bringing copper ore was a good business, it was a lot better business to bring people from Williams to Grand Canyon and South Rim. For some time
Sam Langner: (05:09)
that was the only, the, the train was the only way to get to the National Park. Uh, once the highway was created and, and, uh, folks were all driving wanted to drive their own cars to the South Rim of, Yeah, the railways, uh, ridership declined dramatically. However, uh, uh, years later, 30 years later, Max and Thelma Biegert who were, uh, investors and business people, uh, in the area, they relaunched Grand Canyon Railway. And since that time, uh, in the eighties, uh, it, it, it has, has been operating at full force. So it, it, it, uh, something kind of fun about Grand Canyon Railway is by our metrics we keep in the ballpark of 50,000 cars out of the park, uh, on a yearly basis. And sometimes it's, it's much more than that depending on, uh, on the year.
Evan Stern: (05:58)
That's Sam Langner. A young and enthusiastic fellow Austinite he found himself itching for an adventure after completing his studies in industrial design and took what was supposed to be a seasonal job working at the South Rim's Maswick Lodge. He quickly advanced and a few years later is still living in and loving Arizona, where he manages community relations for the Grand Canyon Railway, which despite its long history, seems as popular as ever.
Sam Langner: (06:24)
Grand Canyon National Park. Everyone's aware of. It's a bucket trip, a bucket list trip for most people. The railway provides a comfortable, safe, easygoing way to get to the canyon. It departs from Williams, Arizona, uh, and is a two hour and 15 minute train ride up to Grand Canyon, South Rim. Once you're there, you have three hours and 15 minutes or so to, to go get photos, hike around, uh, shop or, uh, eat at one of our restaurants up at the South Rim. So Grand Canyon Rail provides families, couples, individuals, a really excellent experience and kind of a, a wild west, uh, callback.
Evan Stern: (07:00)
Some who've made this journey over the years include Presidents Teddy Roosevelt and Bill Clinton, Warren Buffet, Bill Gates, Paul McCartney, and now me. After the gun fight, I and my fellow audience members board our car, a luxury coach from the fifties where we're welcomed by our friendly attendant, Andrew.
Andrew Humble: (07:19)
Right? Good morning everybody. How are we doing today? Good. Right, Well, we are on a 63 mile journey up to the Grand Canyon. My name is Andrew. I'm gonna be your passenger service attendant. Now, sit back, relax and enjoy the ride. We're gonna be traveling at a top speed of about 40 miles an hour, and, uh, we're gonna have a few announcements here from our conductor, and I'll be coming on through shortly taking those drink orders,
Evan Stern: (07:41)
Leaving Williams as the elevation drops, the scenery out the window shifts from Ponderosa to Juniper Forest before gradually easing into Open High Desert. And after serving refreshments and sharing a few fun facts, Andrew graciously takes the seat next to me for a brief chat. A young man with wavy brown hair, a light beard and duck billed hat, he tells me his last name is Humble, which given his attitude seems just about right.
Andrew Humble: (08:08)
Uh, I grew up in, um, Apache Junction, Arizona, uh, it's maybe 30 minutes from Phoenix. And, uh, lived there my whole life. And, uh, I did six years, six years in Florida and I just wanted to be back in Arizona. And Williams is where the dart hit when I threw it. It still kind of embraces the west, you know, the, the, the railroad is sort of what made the west, you know, the west. And, um, you start to kind of, you start to really get into it and, you know, it helps too that there's cowboys walking around the train, you know, and that definitely helps. But when you look, look out at the scenery and just where you're at, you could just really, you could really picture it. And, um, I, I think that kind of helps to take people back. Um, definitely to that time, you know, lost time.
Andrew Humble: (08:51)
Like I said, I love my job that I'm doing. Um, I, I, I have fun every day here. Um, it never really feels like a job. And when the stress does kind of catch up, um, it's easily, it's easily altered and it's easy to easily to be put in a, in a good place. Well, I try to stay as bright as I can. Um, I try to stay upbeat. Um, I try to, you know, I, I love to make people laugh. So if I could do a, a joke, whether it's a corny joke or a naturally a really, you know, educated joke, I like to, you know, and I, I love to put a smile on people's face. I, if one was to stand out in general, I, I mean, I had a lady, uh, actually just yesterday, um, she had, you know, several different cancers, quite a bit wrong with her. And, uh, it was pretty sad this, she said basically, this is gonna be her last, you know, trip with her grandkids. And, um, you know, I just, at that point it's like, you know, I'm gonna make this the best trip they can have, you know, So
Evan Stern: (09:43)
As I understand stories like these aren't uncommon among the pilgrims who visit the canyon, and later that afternoon I meet a middle aged man by the name of Wayne behind the register at Mary Colter's Lookout Studio. A native of North Carolina, he and his wife decided to pack up last year to travel and work around the country. And each day they're reminded why they took this leap.
Wayne: (10:06)
Several people, um, come here, older people who their spouses have died and they had always wanted to do this. They always wanted to travel the national parks. And one or the other spouse died before they were able to. And so they, they carry pictures, um, a lot of them do. And they take pictures with their spouse at a lot of the, the points and stuff. And that really, it really strikes home cuz that's why we're doing this. Um, we're working national parks all over the country just to, so we get to do it before we, you know, you never know.
Evan Stern: (10:40)
One couple who are very much among the living are Kentuckians Doyle and Tammy Yeager, whom I notice holding hands on a shaded bench and matching t-shirts. Would you mind, uh, since you know people can't see them, could you maybe, uh, tell us what your shirt says here?
Tammy: (10:53)
Says just married 40 years ago today.
Evan Stern: (10:56)
So today is your anniversary. And um, what was it about the, uh, Grand Canyon that, uh, made you say, you know what, let's, let's mark this milestone by going there.
Doyle: (11:06)
Talk to her on that one.
Tammy: (11:08)
. Uh, we've never been this far west. We're from the East coast. And when I was planning a trip last spring, uh, actually I started with Williams on Route 66 with the train and led to here.
Evan Stern: (11:22)
And so now being here now, what are your reactions?
Tammy: (11:26)
Oh, it's beautiful. It's beautiful. It's beautiful. Yeah. Everybody should come. Yes. It, I mean, you hear about it, you see pictures. They don't do it justice,
Doyle: (11:35)
Especially from people from a small town to see something like this. Yeah. It's just remarkable. It is.
Evan Stern: (11:42)
And, um, what are your, uh, what are your goals for your 50th
Tammy: (11:47)
Living that long? ?
Doyle: (11:48)
Well, I can tell you the story. She said we should, we should do something on our 40th. And I said, Why? She said, We may not be around for the 50th , so if we make it to 50, I don't know, we may go to Europe or something. Yeah.
Evan Stern: (12:02)
And, uh, I should ask, um, how did y'all meet?
Tammy: (12:07)
I missed the school bus one day in high school and he offered me a ride
Doyle: (12:12)
, I picked her up on the streets. . Yes we did. And, but no, we knew each other before. Yeah. So, yeah.
Evan Stern: (12:19)
And what's your secret to making it work?
Doyle: (12:22)
Do what she says,
Tammy: (12:24)
work through it. Yes.
Doyle: (12:27)
Don't give up cause we've had our issues, but yeah, it's marriage is for a lifetime. And so there's gonna be rough times. You just gotta work through.
Evan: (12:36)
Minutes later I meet a fit sandy haired couple from the French Alps sharing a snack on a rock ledge who happen to be celebrating a different stage of union.
Frenchman: (12:45)
So we are very fond of the United States. That's, uh, our third time in this country. And, uh, we came here for honeymoon and, uh, we are waiting for one year and a half because of travel ban. So we are finally, we are very excited to, to see this beautiful country and particularly the Gand Canyon. I say, uh, um hmm. Uh, in, in in Infinite. Um, I don't know the world for af um, and, uh, um, I'm searching my world even in a French, I don't know because it's too beautiful. Uh, and it's too amazing, incredible, uh, um,
Evan Stern: (13:29)
You get the idea and not to be outdone on the Train is yet another pair whom I get to know as a duo of roving musicians serenade us with some Grateful Dead and Country covers. So you're from Jersey, right?
Jersey wife: (13:41)
We are from New Jersey.
Evan Stern: (13:42)
Were you hoping they'd play some Bruce Springsteen?
Jersey wife: (13:45)
Bon Jovi. Okay. . I'm more of a Bon Jovi girl, but I'll take Bruce any time. Yeah. So
Evan Stern: (13:52)
I don't, is that like a, maybe a dividing line in Jersey? Are you, if you're from Jersey or you Bon Jovi or Bruce
Jersey wife: (13:57)
Is that Sure. That's just like the north and this and the south. There really is no central. You're either north or South Jersey.
Jersey husband: (14:04)
Bon Jovi or Bruce Springsteen. It's also the divide of Taylor Ham versus pork bro. There you go. Sprinkles and Jimmy's, it's, it's the, it's the divide of New Jersey. Absolutely. It's
Evan Stern: (14:13)
Awesome. But what inspired y'all to take, uh, this trip at, uh, at this moment in time?
Jersey husband: (14:18)
So, um, we are expecting our first child. Yeah, thanks so much. Um, and so this is a pre baby moon, but it's, um, a time where we're able to do a few things in Arizona that we've never been able to do, um, separately. And now we're doing it together. Um, and it's before my wife can't go on an airplane anymore, . Um, but yes, that's what brings us here now.
Jersey wife: (14:39)
So I love adventure and I wanted, my husband's never been to the Grand Canyon. I have seen it on the West End, the West Rim, but he has never seen it and it's been on his bucket list. And so we said we wanted some place warmer than New Jersey. And, um, we wanted something that was going to give us adventure.
Evan Stern: (14:59)
Well, congratulations again. Are you painting the, um, are you painting the nursery blue or pink? Do we know yet?
Jersey husband: (15:05)
We don't know yet. We'll know when, uh, when the due day comes.
Evan Stern: (15:08)
Yeah, I think my parents did it the same way too. They did, but, but congratulations. Best wishes in all of your endeavors. And maybe I'll talk to you on the return leg, too.
Jersey wife: (15:18)
Same to you as well.
Evan Stern: (15:20)
But while I am the only solo traveler in our car, couples aren't the only ones drawn here.
Mary: (15:26)
Hi, I'm Mary.
Adriana Sanchez: (15:28)
Adriana Sanchez.
Evan Stern: (15:29)
And where y'all from?
Mary: (15:31)
I'm from Georgia,
Adriana Sanchez: (15:32)
Yuma, Arizona.
Evan Stern: (15:33)
Okay. So, um, what, uh, what, what, what brought you, uh, together for this trip?
Mary: (15:38)
Well, we have a 20 year friendship and I've always wanted to see the Grand Canyon. So I'm the, I'm the road trip driver, .
Evan Stern: (15:46)
How did Y'all meet?
Mary: (15:49)
we're actually fans of the band Journey and we met online through their community forum and we would go to concerts and stuff, travel across the country and do concerts.
Evan Stern: (16:01)
But, So have you been to the Grand Canyon before?
Adriana Sanchez: (16:03)
I have. I I'm an Arizona native, so, um, I recommend it to everybody. It's a lust. I think when you, it's even going several times. I'm always in awe of the canyon.
Evan Stern: (16:16)
Uh, but what, what do, but I guess you make it sound as if the Grand Canyon is on your bucket list. Can you put into words like what it is about the Grand Canyon that has always had your imagination?
Mary: (16:24)
Well, I first saw, um, the Grand Canyon, 1971, the Brady Bunch- a show. And them traveling down on the donkeys and the horses down to the canyon. And that's always been my desire to come to the Grand Canyon and see God's work, you know, And that's what I wanted to see.
Evan Stern: (16:43)
I remember that episode too.
Mary: (16:45)
Yeah.
Evan Stern: (16:46)
Though, I don't think any of us are gonna be getting on the donkeys today. Right?
Mary: (16:49)
Absolutely not no nuts.
Evan Stern: (17:47)
I get off the train, walk up a set of stone stairs, pass the famous El Tovar Lodge, and before me is the Canyon. There are families staging pictures. I hear Spanish, Hindi, what I think is Farsi and a young girl say "It's really better at sunset." But while I've come to expect the worst from busy tourist sites, any human behavior here is dwarfed by the vast beauty that surrounds us. Like the Frenchman suggests, it is indescribable and being at a loss two nights later when visiting Beale Springs near Kingman, I ask my pal, Jim Hinckley, if he can add any eloquence, but assures me it's okay to just let this experience be.
Jim Hinckley: (18:34)
You can't even paint or take a good picture of the Grand Canyon that will do it justice. There's certain things that you have to experience. The Grand Canyon is one. Route 66 is another. Uh, I think there's been more ink put on paper than there has been asphalt covering the road. And yet you cannot adequately describe Route 66 or the Grand Canyon. You see all these beautiful paintings, these beautiful photo photographs. But once you're there in person, once you see that with a dusting of snow, where you stand there and watch the lightning on the North Rim, it's, it, everything else pales in comparison. Something you have to experience. That's one reason. The, the, the Route 66, the National Old Trails Road, its predecessor was marketed this way. It was a gateway to great natural attractions, little side trips, detours, the Grand Canyon, painted desert, petrified Forest, Oak Creek Canyon.
Jim Hinckley: (19:25)
I think it's inherent in human nature. Natural beauty is a draw. John Muir described it, you know, talked about it often a lot better than I can ever do. But it, it's, there's a, there's, if you go to places like the Grand Canyon and you can escape the crowds a little bit, which is surprisingly easy to do even though it's a, a very visited park, but it, it's, it's a quieting of the soul. You come out to these places like Beale Springs- sure we got a little traffic just over the hill, but you sit here and you can actually feel yourself, feel yourself being part of something much larger. And at the same time, it gives you the perspective to realize, don't take yourself serious cuz you're pretty insignificant in the grand scheme of things.
Evan Stern: (20:07)
The ride back is noticeably more quiet than the trip going. And while a little tiredness is to be expected after an early morning and some time hiking around, I do think we're all taking a bit of peace back with us. Leaving the park, I indulge in a bloody Mary and momentarily drift off, but our energy picks up a bit when musician Larry Dean enters the car to entertain us with a bit of yodel,
Evan Stern: (20:37)
Also strolling the aisles and Spurs a hat and silver badge is Marshall Shiloh, whom I recognize from the morning show. So how long have you been been patrolling these trains now?
Marshal Shiloh: (20:49)
Well, I do it every Sunday. Been working here about 23 years. Take off this gun belt and that's my normal clothes anyway,
Marshal Shiloh: (20:59)
But I'm retired now. Well, if I don't do this, then I gotta go get a real job. So
Marshal Shiloh: (21:05)
That's why I do it. I wasn't always a marshal. I was, I'm a bad guy sometimes too. And we're on here robbing the train and I'm going down to aisle robbing folks. And this little boy, he was only about, I don't know, so big, he's all completely dressed out in his vest and chaps and got his marshal badge on his guns and all that. And he stood out in that aisle and he put his hands on his hips and he says, "You are a bad man, you're not getting by." And his, all the time, his lip is just shaking and scared to death, but he wasn't letting us get by. I finally ended up having to pick him up and turn him around and put him back down behind me and go on. But that was, that was the best.
Evan Stern: (21:53)
Marshal Shiloh moves on to the next car as he continues his patrol. But soon after Andrew takes to the intercom to share an advisory
Andrew Humble: (22:01)
The Cataract Creek game, they've escaped from jail and they've been spotted in this area. Now we'll be okay as long as this train doesn't stop. But if for some reason the train stops, there's a good, good chance that they're gonna get on here and they're gonna want to rob you. Second thing you need to know, today's Sunday, their bath day happens to be Monday. Do the math. You don't want these guys getting too close to you, so I suggest having your money and valuables out for the grab. And so they'll just make their way on through
Evan Stern: (22:28)
For reasons unexplained, the train does make a stop and our peaceful car is invaded.
Evan Stern: (22:42)
The Cataract Creek gang is back and they're looking us all over for goods.
Outlaw: (22:48)
What are you gonna make, You know what I call a train robbery with no blood spill, A stainless steal. You have to think about that one, didn't you?
Evan Stern: (22:58)
This scene is pretty miraculous seeing is that we all saw them gunned down this morning, but they're quickly foiled by Marshall Shiloh. Once more,
Outlaw: (23:06)
Somebody's squealed. Somebody's squealed.
Andrew Humble: (23:18)
All right, everybody. Now, before today, has anybody ever been robbed before?
Andrew Humble: (23:22)
No. Well, everybody should put their hands up because we pay taxes. So,
Outlaw: (23:26)
You know.
Andrew Humble: (23:27)
Now second question, I just kind of a statement I wanna make. You know, that was a brief breach of security that normally never happens on here. I've only seen it like once or 200 times before, so, alright, as we round on back into Williams. I just kinda want to come up here one last time and kind of give my final farewell to everybody. Ever since I was young, I was, I was interested in, in railroads and steam locomotives. And when I got to work work around them, I really did consider myself blessed. You know, I get to ride up to one of the natural wonders of the world every day. And I, I get to meet great people and, and each day's different for me, each day's an adventure. And, uh, with that I truly love my job. But, uh, again, I hope today was fun and enjoyable and most importantly, memorable for everybody. And, uh, if you liked what you saw, my name was Andrew, your passenger service attendant. And if you didn't, my name was Vaughn. So thanks everybody.
Evan Stern: (24:23)
We pull back into Williams. And so ends today's ride on the Grand Canyon Railway. Exiting onto the platform, I notice the Jaegers. Again, wish them a happy anniversary and wave goodbye. Seeing them, I remember another husband and wife I once heard of by the name of Edward and Margaret Gehrke. A childless Nebraska couple, they took this same excursion in 1915 and in writing of the trip in her journal, Margaret said, "Let those who will buy lands and hoard money. We will have our memories. Glad memories of golden experiences together." I like to think I tend to follow a similar creed and the experience of this day has given me some golden memories I will carry as long as my mind allows.
